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Full text of "Metalworking"

301b Fighting Robot- Nyx 



.1 



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301b Fighting Robot- Nyx 

Written By: Mike Jeffries 



Step 1 — 301b Fighting Robot- Nyx 




• I recently built a new 301b fighting robot for the NERC Sportsman class and Dragon*Con 
Robot Battles events. This instructable will follow the build process and will include links to 
parts suppliers, machining resources and .dxf drawings of the custom components used to 
make the robot. If you are serious about building your own version of this robot, contact 
me and I'll be happy to help where I can. 



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301b Fighting Robot- Nyx 



Step 2 




• The pile of flat stock was waterjet 
cut by Westar Mfg./Team Whyachi 
out of 6061 aluminum and 4130 
steel. Drawings for this collection 
of parts along with materials, 
thicknesses and quantities can be 
found at 

http://nearchaos.net/nyxparts1.rar 
and 

http://nearchaos.net/nyxparts2.rar . 
These drawings were done with the 
intent that most would be made on 
a waterjet, and as such did not 
require dimensioning. Each of the 
drawings that was meant for 
waterjet cutting has a 1" reference 
square on the sheet. 



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301b Fighting Robot- Nyx 



Step 3 




• With the great deal of interlocking components, the order of assembly is important. The 
first components to be assembled are the weapon hub, support hubs and weapon 
sprocket. The other main piece of the day was countersinking the holes on the inner rails 
to ensure there would be no contact between the moving roller chain and the bolt heads. 
The front threaded spacers also needed to be added and loctited as the bolt heads will be 
covered by the D shaped bearing blocks during assembly. A product called Nutstrip is 
used to connect the panels together, allowing for quick assembly. 



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301b Fighting Robot- Nyx 



Step 4 




• At this point the build was stuck 
since it would be another day 
before the 0.201" drill bit would 
arrive from McMaster-Carr, so I 
tackled two of the smaller projects. 
The first was adding padding to the 
area the flipping attachment would 
contact the front panel. I used 
some 3/16" thick rubber cut into a 
hollow square shape and glued to 
the aluminum plate. The small 
pocketed area was added to allow 
the use of the optional low rpm dual 
grinding disks, as the main weapon 
hub would brush against the 
aluminum plate when spinning 
continuously. 



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301b Fighting Robot- Nyx 



Step 5 




• The weapon sprocket needed to sit closer on the weapon motor shaft than the existing 
keyway allows and without a broach available, I chose to use a mini-mill with a 1/8" endmill 
to expand the keyway area. The shaft was clamped to the table with the existing keyway 
sitting roughly level. The endmill was then brought into the keyway slot and aligned with 
the vertical walls of the keyway. Using low spindle speeds and some cutting fluid it was 
easy to expand the keyway. I've also included a picture of the modified shaft next to a 
stock shaft for comparison. 



Step 6 




• This step starts with drilling the new mount holes in the weapon sprocket. I used the steel 
weapon hub as a guide for the drill bit and quickly added three new holes to the steel 
sprocket. The weapon hub was bolted together and the 3/4" tubular steel shaft was slid 
through the assembly. These bearing blocks were bolted to the front armor panel locking 
the assembly together. The weapon hub was centered on the shaft and the shaft collars 
were locked down at the hub and bearing blocks to prevent it from moving side to side. 
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301b Fighting Robot- Nyx 



Step 7 




• The two inner side rails were slid onto the rear armor panel and the weapon rack was slid 
into the front. These four sections were then bolted together. The last part of the day was 
the addition of the remaining hex standoffs and the baseplate. For the initial build the holes 
were mistakenly drawn to 0.250" diameter when they should have been 1/4" clearance 
holes. (0.266" diameter) This has been fixed for the posted drawings. 



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301b Fighting Robot- Nyx 



Step 8 




• First, the dewalt powerdrive kits 
were bolted to the baseplate. After 
that, the outer side rails were 
bolted to the frame. 1/2" shoulder 
bolts were added with the threaded 
end on the outside of the wheel 
guards. The outer wheel guards 
were removed, allowing for the 
addition of washers, wheels and 
the drive shaft. Once all of this was 
added the outer panel was 
reattached. The weapon motor 
shaft goes into an aluminum 
pillowblock made from scrap, the 
exact design will be up to you if 
you replicate it, the only important 
part is the bushing or bearing used 
in it must be 1" above the 
baseplate. 



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301b Fighting Robot- Nyx 



Step 9 




• The next step was measuring and cutting the chain. First I aligned all of the sprockets with 
the wheels and weapon, then I took the length of roller chain I had and wrapped it around 
the section to determine where I needed to break it. Once the chain was broken at the 
proper length, I wrapped it back around and added the master links. At this point, the 
mechanical assembly is complete. 



Step 10 




• The final day of the build consists 
of a great deal of cutting, crimping 
and soldering with a bit of gluing 
and velcroing thrown in for good 
measure. The electrical system 
consists of the following 
components: 1 Hobbyking R610 
receiver; 1 Team Whyachi MS-1 
switch (discontinued, MS-05 should 
be adequate); 1 Turnigy Nano-tech 
6s 1p 2650mah Lipoly pack; 1 
Digimix V-tail mixer; 3 Holmes 
Hobbies BR-XL motor controllers : 
A small pile of deans connectors, 
wire and bullet plugs 



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301b Fighting Robot- Nyx 



Step 11 




• The BR-XL controllers are velcroed 
to the baseplate between the drive 
motors. The motor side of the 
controllers each connects to 1 
motor, the positive lead on the 
battery side runs to the MS-1 
switch, which has the positive 
battery lead connected to the other 
terminal. The negative lead for 
each controller connects directly to 
the negative battery lead. The drive 
PWM cables connect to the V-tail 
mixer, which then connects to the 
Ail/Ele ports on the rx. The weapon 
controllers PWM cable goes 
directly to the rudder port on the rx. 



Step 12 




• The foam padding that the battery 
is resting in is to minimize the risk 
of shock damage in combat. Once 
all of the systems were hooked up 
and calibrated (full calibration 
instructions come with the BR-XL 
controllers, only calibrate one at a 
time to avoid issues) the robot was 
ready for its first test drive. 



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301b Fighting Robot- Nyx 



Step 13 




• The top armor and the alternate 
weapons are the last parts to be 
added to the robot before it is ready 
for combat. I personally like to add 
some paint to my robots because I 
think it makes it more fun for the 
audience, however that is entirely 
optional. After doing some testing, 
it appears that the weapon drive 
will need a torque limiter for the 
flipper attachment. For now, the 
dual disks are working very well: 



Step 14 




• Drive system testing video: 
http://www.youtube.com/watch? 
v=vfZ7K4YZu... 

• Weapon testing video: 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=- 
hgkGnrr2... 



This document was last generated on 2012-11-03 04:43:16 AM. 



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